Journées du Patrimoine + Maddie and Willie Visit!

This weekend was awesome for 2 reasons:

1) It was Les Journées du Patrimoine, which is one weekend in France where all of these cool buildings that aren't normally open to the public are (like L'Assemblée Nationale, L'Hôtel Matignon, Ambassador's houses, etc.) There are also a lot of museums that are free to the public so it was a great weekend to be in Paris. Though the lines were absurd for the very high profile sites so we ended up going to some of the less famous ones haha.

2) Maddie and Willie came to visit!!!

18 Septembre

I went on a long run this morning and ventured over to Le Marché du Raspail which is another food market not far from my apartment. This one was very similar to the one in Ambroise and I loved it!! So many cool vendors - most notably a lot with interesting nuts and dried fruits (perfect for my trail mix cravings). The market is on every Friday and Sunday morning so I will definitely be visiting it frequently.

Kozy Café: Natalie and I spent most of the day studying at this café near Rue Cler in the 6th not too far from our apartment. It's an awesome study space and the coffee was very good! The waiter even gave us free shots of espresso.

The Louvre: I met up with Willie here Friday afternoon! I surprisingly hadn't been yet, but I know I will be going back. The Louvre is huge and overwhelming. You definitely have to do some research to figure out what you want to see before going. But we had fun just wandering through and looking at all the paintings and sculptures. Most notably: The Mona Lisa (very overrated, but still cool, check it off the bucket list). Finished up the Louvre visit with some Berthillon ice cream of course.

Dirty Dick: Sorry Mom and Dad, I promise that this is a perfectly acceptable well run establishment despite the name. It's a funny little place that serves fun tropical drinks in the 9th. You can get bowls of wild looking cocktails to share and they light them on fire (oooOOOooo!). Apparently cinnamon is their trick for lighting the drinks on fire because the bartender got cinnamon all over my jeans. Fun place to sit with a few friends and hang out before going out!

19 Septembre

Résidence de l'Ambassadeur de Russie: This was a random stop but my host family recommended this stop to us for les journées du patrimoine and it's very close to my apartment. So Natalie, Ben, and I just walked right in and it was really pretty and elegant! The castles I have seen in France so far have been amazing but this was cool because somebody actually lives and works there. And it still looks like something out of the 18th century with the ornate wall decorations and grandiose chandeliers.

La Fondotion Louis Vuitton: Before visiting this I had no idea what it was but heard it was really cool. I still probably couldn't explain to you exactly what it is but it is the COOLEST building I have ever seen. So interesting and well designed. Frank Gehry was the architect and he also designed the Guggenheim in NYC. There were lots of people there but the traffic flow was so well orchestrated that it felt like barely anyone was there. On the ground floor there was a pond that was partially covered alongside a kaleidoscope of mirrors which was incredibly trippy. Inside there were lots of little rooms showing short films made by a variety of artists. For most of them I think you probably had to be on drugs to understand them. But there was one which was portraits of young people dancing by themselves. The artist asked each person to dance to their favorite club songs but it was just them in front of a white wall. It was very well curated - the room was even warm to make it feel like you were inside a night club. The terraces on the top of the building were fantastic. They were gorgeous open spaces partially covered by these glass sail type roofs, but you could still peak out at the landscape.

Les Jardins d'Acclimatation: These gardens are right next to the Louis Vuitton foundation in the 16th and are free with admission to the museum (but you have to pay 3 euros otherwise which is dumb). However, it is a very nice park - great for kids. There were a lot of little cafés and snack stands so we got paninis from a Mozza & Company truck and the panini was delicious! It was a classic caprese panini with prosciutto but the cheese was perfectly melted and the bread was perfectly crispy. Good work mozza.

Le Centenaire: Restaurant/brasserie in the 11th that we went to dinner at with a bunch of friends. We had a large group but it was a good space for us. They have a great dinner formula as well - but I ended up getting the duck. Though I can't complain because the duck was very well done.

Wanderlust: This is a club along the Seine in the 5th arrondissement. It has an awesome outdoor space with twinkly lights along the river! There were a lot of little booths and tables outside which made for a lively scene. And drinks were good (you can get pitchers to share). They also had a burger stand that opened up late at night which you can imagine was very popular. Music was a little weird but that's just the French. Definitely a fun place for when the weather is nice!

This was also the day that Kate and Matt got married!!! So being face timed in to the wedding at 4 in the morning was definitely the highlight of my whole day :) #wilfelli

20 Septembre

Picnicked with Maddie and Willie on the Champ du Mars this morning! Still one of my favorite things to do here. I picked up baguettes from Le Moulin de la Vierge on my way there and they were still warm (heavenly) so of course I had to munch a little while walking (like a true Parisian). Then we walked through Les Jardins du Luxembourg with Ellie which was beautiful as always.

Afterwards I went on a run along the quai (along the Seine) and discovered Les Berges! It's this really cool initiative going on in Paris for a few weeks where they have all these things for the public along the Seine. Like picnic tables, art sculptures, workout equipment, restaurant booths, museum exhibits, etc. They also have a lot of events like fitness classes and other community activities! I'm probably not explaining it well so check out the website: http://lesberges.paris.fr/ A lot of really good restaurants have set up along the quai for this initiative so Natalie and I went down there for dinner!

Le Flow: This is one of the restaurants I just mentioned. We had a nice chill dinner right by the river with an awesome tart and salade nordique. The sunset was absolutely beautiful and we finished up the evening with a delectable caramel and banana crepe from the Le Breizh crepe stand.

First Week of Class

Ah FDOC...

Let me just start out by saying it's true: the French university system and the American university system are very different. I won't spend too long talking about the trials and tribulations of trying to register for courses late as an exchange student but I'll just mention two things:

1) You don't email professors here. I was told if I email a professor before meeting them that they will resent me.

2) When I asked a professor on the second day of class (two days after the first) if she had had a chance to talk to the administration about whether or not I could be in the class she said that she hadn't. And when I asked if I could get her email so she could tell me when she hears back she responded a bit like this:

"The French system and the American system are very different. We don't get you answers as quickly here as you do in the US. I haven't forgotten about you, you're just going to have to wait longer."

She didn't give me her email.

On to the more fun highlights of the week...

P'tites Indécises: Met up with some friends at this restaurant/café in the 11th for lunch after our first class. It was cute and bright with a nice atmosphere and wifi. And they gave me a speculoos cookie with my coffee (score!). However, wifi wasn't awesome and service was a little on and off. The wifi could have been because we were all furiously trying to plan weekend trips though so I won't judge them on that. They have a great lunch menu deal, my salad and melon gazpacho was delicious!

Ran around les jardins des tuileries again, it's become my typical running spot and I still can't get over how pretty it is. I'm pretty lucky to live so close to it.

Les Jardins des Tuileries

Bistro Saint Dominique: Mrs. Flanagan was SO nice to invite me to a dinner here with her and her friends Chantal and Marta! I had an great time, and we spoke in French for the whole dinner which was tiring but very helpful for me - and they were very nice about helping me converse! Learned some useful phrases and got a lot of insider info about Paris from them. Service was pretty bad (rude waiter) but the atmosphere was very nice. Pretty neighborhood and nice lighting/booths inside. I got a crab/avocado dish to start followed by a truffle/ham mac and cheese (how could I not?). We all shared an apple clouftis for dessert as Marta told me it was very French and I was not disappointed of course.

Boat Resto U: I don't know the exact name of this place but it's one of the French university cafeterias. You're probably like "um.. ok.." but the french cafeteria system is AMAZING. The food is great and they give you SO much. You can get a starter, entree, and dessert all for 3,55 euros! They have great meats, fish, cooked vegetables, lots of side salads, cheese platters, charcuterie platters, yogurts, and lots of different types of tarts. American universities could learn a thing or two from them. OH! And this one was on a boat on the seine. Pretty cool atmosphere for sure.

Sugarplum Cake Shop: Went here to study/hang out one day after class. It's an adorable cutesy café in the Latin quarter with great coffee and pastries. They apparently have free refills on filter coffee from noon-3 (clutch!) and delicious scones. You can also watch them make cakes in their cake shop next store. Great atmosphere and wifi (the ideal combination).

Just a random little square I wandered through on my walk from Sugarplum Cake Shop. Gosh.

Margot made a cantaloupe sorbet for dessert one night this week! Once again why can I not just whip up these types of things at home...

We also made another appearance at Chez George which was super fun as always. Made some french friends who introduced us to the DJ (aka a guy playing music videos on youtube behind the bar), so we're kind of a big deal.

Café L'Arobase: Study cafés seem to be the theme of this week and this one is great! It's right between Paris 7 and Paris 1 so it's a very convenient location. They have good coffee and delicious desserts (Natalie and I shared a white chocolate and berry crumble pie which was to die for). I came back later in the week to try their lunch formula (bagel sandwich+salad+coffee). I've gotta say that the "New Yorkais" bagel was a bit laughable as it had maybe a slice of salmon and a dollop of cream cheese. So I guess New York does do at least one thing better than Paris. However, it was still tasty and I will definitely be a regular there. Side note: arobase means @ in French. They incorporate the @ sign in to the cup of coffee in their logo which is pretty clever.

La Grande Epicerié: Stopped in hear on my lackadaisical walk home from class and it was very worth it! Kind of a mix between Dean and Deluca and Whole Foods. I didn't buy anything but it was still fun to wander around and look at all the gourmet food being made.

Thursday night I had dinner with Margot, Christelle, and Gaelle and we made crêpes! It was very casual and very fun. Really felt like part of the fam and had some delicious crepes so definitely a great night to end the first week of classes.

12 et 13 Septembre - Loire Valley

This weekend we went on a trip through EDUCO to visit a few chateaux in the Loire Valley. Unfortunately it was rainy and not the best weather.. but it did clear up for a few hours here and there making the trip well worth it! The French countryside is absolutely beautiful, I'm so glad I got to see it. And EDUCO does plan good events.

12 Septembre

Chateaux de Chambord: It was rainy and cold so I didn't get the best impression of Chambord. Especially after just having seen Versailles the day before it didn't really compare (jaded oops). However it was still a beautiful castle! We went to a café on the grounds afterward for lunch and I think that was the highlight. The region is known for their goat cheese so Natalie and I split the best "salade de chèvre chaud" I have ever had along with a delicious croque chèvre. And that's saying a lot considering goat cheese salads are on pretty much every menu in Paris.

 

Cave de Vouvray: Next we went to the wine cave for the producers of Vouvray wine which was really cool! We got to walk through the cave and see all of the bottles of wine stacked there (about 4 million in the cellar). We also learned about how the wine is made, aged, turned, etc. There is a very systematic way of aging wine I've learned. Thought about you all during this trip, Dad! We also got to do a little wine tasting after (#tyEDUCO) which is always fun. Vouvray is known for their sparkling wines, and the demi-sec was my favorite.

 


Château du Clos Lucé: This is Leonardo de Vinci's house in Ambroise where he spent the last few years of his life. Ambroise is a really cute picturesque town filled with small houses covered in ivy vines lining cobblestone streets. The house was interesting, but the gardens were cooler. The backyard had lots of interesting plants and a great view!

I can't remember the name of the hotel we stayed at but I must note that the dinner at the hotel was surprisingly good. EDUCO treated us to a three course meal consisting of a duck salad, salmon, and chocolate mouse for dessert. Along with both red and white wine (#tyEDUCO)

13 Septembre

Ambroise Market: I am ALL about these cute french food markets. Unfortunately it was pouring rain so we didn't stay long but I'm sure I would have wandered around for hours otherwise if that weren't the case. There were vegetable and fruit stands, tons of bread, lots of cheese, and all different kinds of meats. Along with some crepe and waffle stands!

making paella!

Châteaux Ambroise: This chateaux was pretty and had a nice chapel with a great view of the village. It was also rainy and all the chateaux start to blend together but the view here was quite amazing. Leonardo de Vinci was also buried in he chapel here.

Châteaux Chenonceau: This châteaux was my favorite! I guess they saved the best for last. The chateaux was built over a gorgeous river and the flowers in the gardens were beautifully maintained. There was also a cute princess type tower next to the main castle. After touring the castle we got lost in a labyrinth and wandered through a vegetable garden that actually had DELICIOUS apples growing there. We stole some, don't tell.

The Orangerie at Châteaux Chenonceau: EDUCO treated us to lunch at this restaurant on the chateaux grounds and I felt like royalty. I was so surprised when they brought us in to this nice all white dining room for yet another 3 course meal accompanied by white wine and rosé! (#tyEDUCO) We started of with a brightly colored salad platter, followed by hen (interesting I know), and finished up with a yummy fruit tart. Glad to know all the money we're paying EDUCO is going toward something......?

 

11 Septembre - Versailles

Versailles: Last time I visited Paris with Mom we went to Versailles and it was one of my favorite days ever. And again, Versailles didn't fail to impress! The gardens are definitely my favorite part. Although we did get a tour through EDUCO of some rooms that aren't normally shown to visitors so that was pretty cool. Also, I didn't realize this but there is apparently an artist for Versailles each year who creates sculptures for the gardens. The artist of Versailles for 2015 is Anisha Kapoor and one of his sculptures in the center of the gardens was vandalized a few days before we got arrived with anti-semitic phrases. However, Kapoor decided that he did not want to remove the graffiti. He instead wanted the statue to serve as a reminder that these types of prejudices still exist. I think this is very noble of him and the vandalism is very heartbreaking. However, on a completely separate note the sculpture was pretty ugly. It didn't fit in with the esthetic of Versailles at all and was right in the center. Frankly I'm surprised they let it be built. That could just be my opinion but you look at the photo and decide for yourself. Other than that we wandered around the gardens for a while and took out some rowboats on the river - once again a beautiful day!

Anish Kapoor's art piece that was later vandalized.

Sushi Shop: This is a sushi chain in Paris (as you probably could have guessed). But Natalie and I were really craving sushi so we went after our long day at Versailles. Not the best sushi I've had but definitely tasty and well priced. I'll be back to satisfy my sushi love depravation often I'm sure! (Oh and they deliver!)

10 Septembre - Sainte-Chapelle/Monmartre

These two days were yet again filled with some successful tourist ventures by the Paris squad...

Sainte-Chapelle: We had been waiting for a sunny morning to come here and it was SO worth it. The stained glass in the chapel is breathtaking. It might be the prettiest chapel I've seen in Paris so far. The designs in the glass were very intricate and impressive. I could have stayed in there for hours just watching how the designs changed as the sun moved!

Monmartre: After Sainte-Chapelle we took the metro up to Monmartre and walked up the hill to Sacre Coeur. This neighborhood is SO cute! You walk up windy cobblestone streets and pass lots of cute little houses and shops until you get to a bustling neighborhood in a square just below Sacre Coeur. There are tons of artists sitting outside and painting in the square. They'll even do a really nice portrait for you if you want! They're work was beautiful and I was so tempted to buy one but they were $$$... maybe some day. There are also lots of cafés and benches surrounding the square so it's a great place to relax and watch the artists work. (And get some gelato!) We also stopped in to an art gallery on the square who's name I forgot but they low key had some really famous artists' work in there like Dali and Rubenstein!

La Maison Rose: Natalie, Liv, and I got lunch at this adorable café at the top of Monmartre. It was a beautiful sunny day as we sat outside with our duck salads (and french fries) listening to a man play guitar and sing just across the street. It felt like we were in the South of France for lunch!

Sacre Coeur: This church is at the top of Monmartre and looks out over all of Paris. The view was really cool and definitely worth the trek. However, we couldn't see the eiffel tower from there which was a bit of a bummer. I'm sure you could see it if you went to the top of the church but we didn't want to wait in line to climb (oops). This church is also beautiful and has fantastic domed ceilings.

Tournebride: We went here for dinner that night with a few friends and it was perfect for us! Nice café on a cool back street so we sat outside. I got the salmon which was delicious and not too pricy. The waiter was very sarcastic which was funny at first but then just kind of awkward. Then went to Le Mix because Nuba was a bust.

Moulin Rouge: Forgot to mention that we walked by this. Red light district is interesting. But hey I got a photo.